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Sep 14, 2010

Fragmentary Chasuble with Woven Orphrey Band

1300s

Italy (Chasuble) and Germany

(Orphrey)

Silk and gold thread, lampas weave; embroidered orphrey

Overall: 106.7 x 68.6 cm (42 x 27 in.); Mounted: 123.2 x 82.5 cm (48 1/2 x 32 1/2 in.)

Purchase from the J. H. Wade Fund 1928.653

Location

not on view

Description

The second half of the 14th century was one of the great periods of Italian silk design. Drawing upon Chinese and Islamic as well as European motifs, designers created international designs of beauty and drama. This rare, fragmentary chasuble displays a Chinese phoenix with outstretched wings flying toward a group of pseudo-Arabic letters while a dog snarls at the bird. Arabic script was associated with the Holy Land. Although generally decorative rather than legible, it was incorporated in Italian silk patterns during the 1300s and 1400s and in paintings frequently decorating the border of the Virgin’s mantle and occasionally her halo.

Citations

G. U. (Gertrude Underhill). "A Textile of the Fourteenth Century." The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art 16, no. 3 (1929). 51-48 www.jstor.org

Los Angeles County Museum. 2000 Years of Silk Weaving: An Exhibition Sponsored by the Los Angeles County Museum in Collaboration with the Cleveland Museum of Art and the Detroit Institute of Arts. 1944. no. 97, p. 14, pl. 26

Weibel, Adèle Coulin. Two Thousand Years of Textiles; The Figured Textiles of Europe and the Near East. New York: Published for the Detroit Institute of Arts [by] Pantheon Books, 1952. p. 134. no. 195

The Cleveland Museum of Art. The Cleveland Museum of Art Handbook. Cleveland, OH: The Cleveland Museum of Art, 1958. Mentioned and Reproduced: cat. no. 163 archive.org

Honour, Hugh. Chinoiserie; The Vision of Cathay. [London]: J. Murray, 1961. pl. 2, p. 246

Walters Art Gallery (Baltimore, Md.). The International Style: The Arts in Europe Around 1400; [Exhibition]: October 23-December 2, 1962, / B. [Baltimore, Md.]: Walters Art Gallery, 1962.

"Gothic Art 1360-1440." The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art 50, no. 7 (1963): 174-215. p. 181, 214, no. 94 www.jstor.org

The Cleveland Museum of Art. Handbook of the Cleveland Museum of Art/1966. Cleveland, OH: The Cleveland Museum of Art, 1966. Reproduced: p. 60 archive.org

The Cleveland Museum of Art. Handbook of the Cleveland Museum of Art/1969. Cleveland, OH: The Cleveland Museum of Art, 1969. Reproduced: p. 60 archive.org

Devoti, Donata. L'arte del tessuto in Europa. Milano: Bramante, 1973. fig.. 36

Mayer-Thurman, Christa C., John Maxon, Aidan Kavanagh, Donald L. Garfield, and Horace T. Allen. Raiment for the Lord's Service: A Thousand Years of Western Vestments. Chicago: Art Institute, 1975. no. 12, p. 78-9 illus. p. 78

Wardwell, Anne E. 1977. “The Stylistic Development of 14th- and 15th-Century Italian Silk Design.” Aachener Kunstblätter / Hrsg. Im Auftr. Des Vorstandes Des Aachener Museumsvereins 47.1976/77(1977), 177-226. p. 200-202 ingallslibrary.on.worldcat.org

The Cleveland Museum of Art. Handbook of the Cleveland Museum of Art/1978. Cleveland, OH: The Cleveland Museum of Art, 1978. Reproduced: p. 69 archive.org

Welch, Anthony. Calligraphy in the Arts of the Muslim World. Austin: University of Texas Press, 1979. p. 90, no. 28

Ball, Victoria Kloss. Architecture and Interior Design. New York: Wiley, 1980. fig 5.53, p. 190-191

Martin Nagy, Rebecca. Textiles in Daily Life in the Middle Ages. Cleveland, Ohio: Cleveland Museum of Art in cooperation with Indiana University Press, 1985. p. 13, 17, 57

Wardwell, Anne E. "Flight of the Phoenix: Crosscurrents in Late Thirteenth- to Fourteenth-Century Silk Patterns and Motifs." The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art 74, no. 1 (1987): 2-35. Accessed September 27, 2020. http://www.jstor.org/stable/25159970. p. 26-27, fig. 34 www.jstor.org

Jacobson, Dawn. Chinoiserie. London: Phaidon, 1993. p. 23

Sporbeck, Gudrun. "Liturgical Vestments adorned with Cologne bands over the centuries." In Iconography of Liturgical Textiles in the Middle Ages. Evelin Wetter and Michael Bangert, editors. Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung, 2010. p. 183-193

Cleveland Museum of Art. The CMA Companion: A Guide to the Cleveland Museum of Art. Cleveland: Cleveland Museum of Art, 2014. Mentioned and reproduced: P. 368

Müller, Kathrin. Musterhaft naturgetreu: Tiere in Seiden, Zeichnungen und Tapisserien des 14. und 15. Jahrhunderts. Berlin: Gebr. Mann Verlag, 2020. Reproduced: P. 62, abb. 18

Exhibition history

The International Style: The Arts in Europe around 1400. The Walters Art Gallery, Baltimore, MD (October 23-December 30, 1962).

Raiment for the Lord's Service, A Thousand Years of Western Vestments. The Art Institute of Chicago, Chicago, IL (November 11, 1975-January 18, 1976).

Calligraphy in the Arts of the Muslim World. Asia House Gallery, New York, NY (Winter 1979); Cincinnati Art Museum, Cincinnati, OH; Seattle Art Museum, Seattle, WA; and the St. Louis Art Museum, St. Louis, MO.

Gallery 216 installation. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (July 1991).

2000 Years of Silk Weaving. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (March 18-April 16, 1944).

The International Style: The Arts in Europe around 1400. The Walters Art Museum, Baltimore, MD (organizer) (October 23-December 2, 1962).

Gothic Art 1360-1440. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (organizer) (August 6-September 15, 1963).

Circa 1300. Snite Museum, University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame, IN (organizer) (September 26-November 7, 1965).

Calligraphy in the Arts of the Muslim World. Asia House Galleries, New York City, NY (organizer) (January 11-March 11, 1979); The Cincinnati Art Museum, Cincinnati, OH (April 17-May 27, 1979); Seattle Art Museum, Seattle, WA (June 28-August 12, 1979); Saint Louis Art Museum, St. Louis, MO (September 14-October 28, 1979).

Textiles in Daily Life in the Middle Ages. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (organizer) (January 22-March 17, 1985).

Renaissance Textiles (Textile Rotation) - Gallery 115. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (organizer) (November 14, 2012-December 10, 2013).

Liturgical Textiles and Manuscripts from Medieval and Early Renaissance Italy (Manuscript and Textile Rotation) - Gallery 115. The Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, OH (organizer) (December 5, 2018-December 2, 2019).

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{{cite web|title=Fragmentary Chasuble with Woven Orphrey Band|url=https://clevelandart.org/art/1928.653|year=1300s|access-date=01 April 2023|publisher=Cleveland Museum of Art}}

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Fragmentary Chasuble with Woven Orphrey Band

Fragmentary Chasuble with Woven Orphrey Band

Italy (Chasuble) and Germany

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