May 10, 2013
May 10, 2013
May 10, 2013
May 10, 2013
May 10, 2013

Man's surcoat (khalat)

Man's surcoat (khalat)

late 1800s

Silk: embroidery, cross-stitch

Overall: 150 x 218.4 cm (59 1/16 x 86 in.)

Gift of Mr. and Mrs. J. H. Wade 1916.1412



Prestigious men’s surcoats embellished with designs such as this dramatic decoration in cross-stitch were among the most elaborate silk-thread embroidered garments in Central Asia. In a flamboyant style, large palmettes framed by split palmette leaves dominate with quartered rosettes and smaller flora on a brilliant yellow ground. Foliate vines enhance the edge along the front center opening, hemline, and cuffs. It is lined with an ikat of cypress trees and finger-looped trim. The style and technique represent professional work from Shahr-i Sabz, south of Samarkand. The pattern was drawn on the cotton ground cloth of the surcoat, then disassembled for stitching, and finally reassembled—revealed by severed and misaligned motifs plus mismatched colors.

See also
T - Islamic
Type of artwork: 

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